Tech Information

Important Alignment Info

A proper performance alignment can dramatically improve how your classic Ford drives — sharper response, better stability, and more confident handling. At Opentracker Racing, we call this a performance alignment. We increase positive caster for high-speed stability and add zero to negative camber for superior cornering grip (instead of the positive camber most of these cars left the factory with).

Negative camber improves grip in turns, but the ideal amount is driver- and use-specific. A daily driver needs less than a weekend canyon carver or track car. Tire wear patterns on the street or tire temperatures across the tread on the track will tell you how much negative camber works best for your car.

Caster Explained

Caster is the forward or rearward tilt of the steering axis (the imaginary line through the upper and lower ball joints) when viewed from the side of the car. Positive caster means the top of this axis tilts rearward — like a shopping cart wheel that trails and naturally self-centers.

At Opentracker Racing, we strongly recommend running significantly more positive caster than original factory specifications (which were designed for bias-ply tires).

Key Benefits of Increased Positive Caster

• Enhanced High-Speed Stability — The car tracks straighter and feels more planted on highways and long straights.
• Strong Self-Centering / Return-to-Center — Steering naturally returns to center after turns for better safety and confidence.
• Improved Steering Feel & Road Feedback — Sharper, more communicative steering.
• Better Cornering Dynamics — Creates dynamic camber gain on the outside wheel during turns, working hand-in-hand with static negative camber to keep more tire tread planted.
• Modern Radial Tire Compatibility — Radials make low-caster cars feel nervous. Added caster makes them predictable and stable.

Our Recommended Caster Ranges

• Manual Steering: +2° to +3.5°
• Power Steering: +2.5° to +4.5° (many owners comfortably run +5° or higher)

Pro Tip: Aim for the higher end of the range when possible, especially with an Arning/Shelby drop, radial tires, or wider wheels. Keep caster within 0.25°–0.5° side-to-side for balanced handling.

Street Alignment Specs

• Caster:
  +2° to +3.5° (Manual Steering)
  +2.5° to +4.5° (Power Steering)
• Camber: 0° to -0.5°
• Toe: 1/8″ total toe-in

Street/Performance Alignment Specs

• Caster:
  +2.0° to +3.5° (Manual Steering)
  +2.5° to +4.5° (Power Steering)
• Camber: -0.5° to -1.5°
• Toe: 1/8″ total toe-in

Important Notes

• Caster and camber settings should be the same on both sides (maximum 0.25°–0.5° difference) for proper handling. Slight variations can help compensate for road crown.
• These are proven starting points. Fine-tune based on your specific tires, suspension modifications, and driving style.

Arning Drop (Shelby Drop) – 1″ Upper Control Arm Drop

Overall performance improves significantly when you lower the upper control arm mounting point on 1960–1968 Falcons, 1964–1970 Mustangs, and similar Ford/Mercury vehicles.

In stock form, the top of the tire moves outward (positive camber gain) as the suspension compresses and the car rolls in a turn. Dropping the upper arm mount ~1″ improves geometry so the tire moves more vertically in the wheel well. This reduces unwanted positive camber, improves the camber curve, lowers the roll center slightly, and delivers better grip and handling.

Benefits

• Increased cornering traction
• Reduced body roll
• More predictable steering

There is virtually no downside other than drilling four ½” holes in your 50+ year-old chassis (use a template or jig for accuracy). This modification, developed by Klaus Arning and used by Carroll Shelby on the GT350s, is one of the most effective low-cost upgrades you can make.

Frequently Asked Questions